Caserta at 400 Gradi. Johnny Di Francesco has Neapolitan roots and his excellent wood-fired pizzas seem to prove it. The Caserta is the pared-back glamour number of the list with star ingredients - Levoni prosciutto, imported mozzarella di bufala and San Marzano tomatoes - and careful cooking underlining the beauty of the quality-simplicity equation. Michael Harden. $24.50. 400 Gradi, 99 Lygon Street, Brunswick. Phone: 9380 2320.