They don’t look like much. To my unadjusted eye, they merely look like tire tracks leading to holes in soft sand. But to those who know, they mean only one thing–we are on an active turtle nesting beach. We are in Oman, a land of forts and frankincense, Bedouins and wadis, desert dunes and rugged coastline. But for us, Oman is first and foremost a country whose white sand beaches serve as the yearly nesting sites for tens of thousands of sea turtles.